Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Hue and the gem of Hoi An

Dear All,

Taking off where we left on the last post, we arrived into Hanoi after the bus-boat-bus trip from Cat Ba Island. After turning down a hoard of sketchy taxis near the bus terminal, we managed to haggle ourselves a ride with 2 other travelers to the train station at a basement bargain price of 50,000 dong (when the journey on the way to the bus station had cost 70,000 dong on the taxi meter - we're finally getting a hang of this!). We had some hours to kill before the 11pm train, and were feeling a little peckish (as we normally are), so we had some delicious street food!

BBQ street food! (yes-we bought raw beef off the street!)

The ever-inviting Hanoi train station!

We boarded the 'soft sleeper' train around 10.30pm and arrived into Hue, Central Vietnam, on Friday mid-morning - the ride was reasonable, until around 4am when a change in our 4-person cabin brought along a family with their screaming 2 year old.


Hue is, to Mitch anyway, somewhat reminiscent of Hanoi - just a step below in craziness - the streets are large with tree-lined walkways and there are very few hassle-rs. The remarkable feature of Hue is that most residents of the city still live behind the 10km long (2m thick) walls of the Citadel. The city was the capital and home to the emperors of the Nguyen empire and thus it is fortified by citadels (3 in some areas) and similarly there are many tombs, pagodas and temples. We only had the pleasure of staying for one night in Hue as we were keen to make our way to Hoi An - below is a number of photos of Hue. On the first afternoon we visited the city's Citadel followed by the Imperial Enclosure and the Forbidden Purple City (a citadel-within-a-citadel-within-a-citadel).

Tree-lined streets - and Jennifer!



The side entrance to the Imperial Enclosure




Spot Mitch!





As we only had a half-day before our onward journey to Hoi An, we hired a motorbike for half a day and visited the Tomb of Tu Doc - Emperor from 1848 to 1883. See photos below!










We took a 4-hour bus ride from Hue to Hoi An - a considerably easier journey than our last overnight train! Hoi An is a beautiful city that has a long history steeped in trade with other countries. The city itself is charming - quiet streets where cars are not permitted (the sign says for "primitive vehicles only" - I guess that means Homo sapiens ), great food (probably the best we've had in Vietnam) and in general, a relaxed atmosphere. On our first full day, we hit the pavement looking for the best tailor we could find - and I'm happy to report that we now have a tailor in the Orient. We spent the first day mostly searching for the right tailor, and in the evening (around 7pm - the Hoi An-ese work hard, their days start at 8am and run until 9:30pm!) we placed our orders for a suit each. Today we visited the My Son ruins from the Cham civilisation - although encountered our first real downpour, which is actually pretty good considering it has been forecast-ed to be raining non-stop! See the photos below!

Enjoying another quality meal!
 Hoi An


Bring sexy back.








 Guard dogs in Vietnam are generally quite relaxed.

Jennifer being fitted!


We are now planning to stay in Hoi An for another 3 nights, make our way to Mui Ne and then onto the final leg of our journey together back to Saigon. We're planning on undertaking a cooking class tomorrow - so we can make some killer Pho Bo (not dog) when we get home!


Jen and Mitch

Thursday, November 25, 2010

the Sea - Cat Ba Island

Dear All,

We arrived to Cat Ba Island (aka the Island with a thousand peaks - thats my description, you'll see why below!) on Tuesday. Cat Ba Island is the largest island in Halong Bay and it enjoys similar natural wonders as the whole of the North East Vietnam including beautiful national parks coated in jungle, sandy beaches and of course, the highly acclaimed limestone islands (of which there are around 300 or so surrounding Cat Ba). On arrival, we took it easy and enoyed the sunset (with some clouds and haze) over a few beers.


View from our balcony.

The after sunset view with the haze - the view from the hotel.

The very bright (and horrible) neon light display after dark!

The next day we decided tostay on land and explore the island with a motorbike - a lot of fun! Words (especially written by Mitch) cannot really describe the beauty of the island and therefore we'll simply show photos - some are caption but not all, due to time constraints.

Motorbike shot.







When the sun is out a little.


Lunch!

Freshly caught prawns (shrimp!!)







The next day we decided to explore the area by boat - the beautiful and somewhat mystical Lan Ha Bay - unfortunately the sun did not want to play - however this did not detract from the spectacular scenes we were able to see.













Today, our final day before boarding the boat back to Haiphong and onto Hanoi for our overnight train to Hue, Central Vietnam, we went for a hike in Cat Ba National Park and from a peak, we enjoyed many panoramic views of the island (with the thousand peaks). Climbing up the lookout was the frightening experience, and mum, you would definitely not enjoy this.



Holding on tight!




A few of the planks were missing/broken-no biggie.


The tower!


So, we're now waiting for our bus to start the journey back to Hanoi and onto Hue. We'll give you an update from Central Vietnam.

Jen and Mitch